![]() ![]() our last frost isn’t until april 15 but usually march is full of 50s and 60s - GREAT cool crop weather. this won’t change the hours of sunlight in the day, but it can make a big difference here in north carolina, especially in the spring, where temps are tumultuous. (i usually google a bit to double check my assumptions - and look for extra little tips for success for a new variety.)Įxtending seasons: to start plants a little earlier and keep them a little longer, we can alter temps as much as 5-10° with frost cloths and cold frames. ![]() for example: winter choy only needs 4-6 hours of full sun, is frost hardy, and ideal temp is 50-80° - so, if they’re planted in a sunny spot, you could assume they’d go out very early spring before the last frost and will do most of their growing in the cool spring temps with short days, OR you could plant them early in the fall and get the majority of their growing done before temps dip too far into the 30s/40s. Sun: double check the hours of sun a plant needs too. if you’ve tried to grow something in the summer and ‘it’s always sucked,’ it might have been a cool crop and your heat wiped it out! □ ![]() if the range is large, like 50-85° (like beets), you can grow them cool or warm season. if the ideal temp is 70-90°, it’s likely a warm crop. Ideal temps: if you look at a pack of seeds and notice the ideal temp is 40-60°, it’s likely a cool crop. When understanding the difference between seasonal crops, pay attention to their (1) ideal temperature for growth, (2) the hours of sun they need in a day, and (3) the temperature they experience damage/die at. you know, the ones that go out after the last frost in the spring, and die with the first frost in the fall. most of us casual gardeners are only growing these summer warm crops. It wasn’t until 2020 when i read the year-round vegetable gardener that i realized there were cool crops, warm crops, AND cold crops. ![]()
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